Brandon Blackwood Trunk Bag; Topshop off-the-shoulder stripe top with Nordstrom 1901 Plaid Wide Leg Crop Pant; Vince Camuto Beaujolais Suede Acasha Pump
Hello, Beauties🌸 Today’s post, I’m remembering New York Fashion Designer Claire McCardell.

Brandon Blackwood Kendrick Trunk Bag

My first recollection of Claire McCardell, on one of my many visits to Manhattan, with my daughter, Channing in December 2016. While we hurried along that cold and bustling Christmas season day on Seventh Avenue in the Garment District, I noticed a plaque on the ground for Claire McCardell.

Brandon Blackwood Trunk Bag; Nordstrom 1901 Plaid Wide Leg Pant; Vince Camuto Beaujolais Suede Pump

Post of New York Fashion Designer Claire McCardell; Brandon Blackwood Trunk Bag
Wearing: Last summer’s Topshop Off-the-Shoulder Stripe Top, Nordstrom 1901 Plaid Wide-Leg Crop Pant, and Vince Camuto Beaujolais Suede Acasha Pump. Accessories: Brandon Blackwood Kendrick Trunk Bag and J. Crew Factory Statement earrings.

You know where I’m going with this, just who was Claire McCardell (1905-1958?)  Her name doesn’t ring a bell-like many of the other earlier American Fashion Designer based in New York City. It’s worth revisiting the designer’s understated all-American style.

NYC Fashion Walk of Fame Claire Mc Cardell Plaque
The Fashion Walk of Fame, the only permanent landmark dedicated to American Fashion. The Fashion Walk of Fame celebrates excellence in American design by honoring designers who have had a significant and lasting impact on the way the world dresses with plaques embedded into the sidewalk of Fashion Avenue located in the Garment District.

McCardell, according to the Fashion Walk of Fame plaque, one of the most important fashion designers of the 20th Century. Why? The designer pioneered the American Look.  Before World War II, American fashion relied on Parisian haute couture.

Claire came along during a time of change when women wanted independence from corporal restrictions or dictates from Paris. Her specialty was leisurewear, including playsuits and swimwear.

Claire McCardell

It was the ready-to-wear designers such as Norman Norrell (1900-1972), Hattie Carnegie and Claire McCardell, among others, who finally established New York as a rival fashion capital to Paris.

Claire McCardell

The homegrown designer born in Frederick, Maryland, the eldest of four children. Claire fascinated by fashion from a young age moved to New York City after two years at Hood College. McCardell graduated from Parsons in 1923 with a certificate in costume design then continued her studies in Paris.

Claire McCardell Townley Frock

The creative sportswear genius work history includes stints with Robert Turk, Townley Frocks, and Hattie Carnegie. While working for Ms. Carnegie, McCardell met Diana Vreeland (then at Harper’s Bazaar) who would become McCardell’s lifelong friend and champion.

Check out Claire’s still on point classic designs:

Claire McCardell AdClaire McArdell Ad

Claire McCardell Playsuit
Claire McCardle Playsuit; Claire introduced the concept of adult”play clothes.”

Classic Claire McCardell look
Claire McCardell Design

Her heavy hitters:
Claire McCardell Monastic Dress

Claire McCardell, 1942 Popover Dress
1942 Claire McCardell ‘Popover’ Dress created as an all-purpose housework garment for women who joined the war effort, whether in jobs or looking after the home. At only $6.95, it became a runaway success in America.

 

Claire McCardell 1952 Day Dress.
1952 Claire McCardell Day dress. McCardell, inspired by Vionnet and Chanel when studying in Paris in 1926.

 

Claire McCardell Swimsuit
Claire McCardell Swimsuit/Playwear

Awards and Recognition:

1955 Time Magazine Cover with Claire McCardell
1955 Time Magazine Cover with New York Fashion Designer Claire McCardell.

Claire designed clothes for her lifestyle, much as Chanel did before her. A McCardell quote from the Time article, “I’ve always designed things I needed myself.  It just turns out that other people need them too”. Many of her pieces created out of necessity:  shivering aboard a yacht she made a wrap in tweed, skiing with cold ears, she designed a wool jersey hood.

Met Photo of Claire McCardell
Claire McCardell.  Photo credit: The Met

In 1988, thirty years after her death, three separate retrospectives of Clair McCardell’s work shown at Metropolitan Museum of Art, F.I.T., and the Maryland Historical Society.

What Shall I wear? Claire McCardell's 1956 book.
Claire McCardell’s 1956 book: What Shall I wear?  The What, Where, When & How Much Of Fashion.

With the help of longtime friend and classmate, Mildred Orrick, Claire completed her final sketches from her hospital bed.  On the day of the show, Claire checked herself out of the hospital to personally introduce that last collection at New York’s Pierre Hotel.  Claire died of terminal colon cancer at the age of 52 on March 22, 1958.

Photo of NY Fashion Designer Claire McCardell
Claire McCardell. Photo credit: Maryland Historical Society

What are your thoughts on Claire’s casual and functional designs? And the use of conventional, natural fibers such as cotton, twill, gingham, denim, and jersey in a variety of classic apparel, still fashionably on time?  Let me know in the comments section.

Thank you for reading.  Have a fabulous week.